Have you ever wondered what skincare products to avoid? We all want healthy, radiant skin that makes us feel confident and comfortable in our own skin – and there are literally a gazillion of products out there promising you just that. Not only are beauty brands releasing new serums and moisturisers by the minute, they’re also creating new categories of products that promise to revolutionise your skincare routine.
The truth? Some skincare products aren’t necessary. (Yes, toner, I’m looking at you). But are there any that are harmful? No, I’m not talking about dangerous ingredients. You can’t put toxic stuff in cosmetics. That’s the law. I’m talking about whole categories of skincare products that do more harm than good to your skin. Like scrubs. (Yes, scrubs are more dangerous than mineral oil for your skin).
Just been some skincare products give you results, it doesn’t mean they’re good for you. Some categories of products were developed back in the days when we didn’t have many options and didn’t know better. Brands are still making them because consumers got used to them and like the results they get, unaware there are safer and better ways to achieve the same flawless skin without side effects.
So, what should you stay away from? Here are 3 skincare products to avoid like the plague if you want beautiful, healthy skin (and what to use instead):
Skincare Product To Avoid #1: Alcohol-Based Toners
Toners are useless. Change my mind. OK, these days toners are far from the alcohol-laden concoctions of times gone past BUT, even the most hydrating toners don’t do much for your skin. I mean, just get yourself a hyaluronic acid serum. It’s way more moisturising and does a better job. Why spend money for unnecessary layers when your skin doesn’t need them?
But alcohol-based toners are useless AND evil. Yes, they may not be the norm anymore, but you’ll still come across the odd toner for oily skin that’s loaded with alcohol and little else. It’s a cheap trick. Here’s what I mean. Alcohol drinks up all the sebum on your skin, tricking you into thinking you won’t have to put up with shiny patches, blackheads and pimples anymore.
Until a few hours later when that sebum comes back with a vengeance! What the heck happened? Alcohol dries out your skin. Sebum is your skin’s natural moisturizer. When you remove too much, your skin sends a signal to sebaceous glands to produce more to compensate.
FYI, not all alcohol in skincare is bad. The culprit is usually alcohol denat when used in basic formulas with no moisturizing ingredients or antioxidants that can neutralise its drying effects. If it has other types of alcohol, like Cetyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Alcohol, you’re good.
Related: Do You Really Need A Toner?
WHAT TO USE INSTEAD
Instead of alcohol-based toners, use Salicylic acid. According to a study published in the Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology journal, Salicylic acid “is a safe and efficacious peeling agent for a number of dermatological and cosmetic problems, including acne vulgaris, melasma, photodamage, freckles, and lentigines.”
It helps oily skin in a variety of ways. For starters, it’s the only exfoliant that gets inside your pores, unclogging blackheads and whiteheads from within. While it’s at it, it also exfoliates the surface of your skin, preventing dead cells from clogging pores and giving you acne. That’s not enough. It also keeps oil production under control and reduces redness.
FYI, although I prefer serums with Salicylic Acid, you can use toners with it too. As long as it contains Salicylic Acid, it’s going to help oily skin stay clear and shine-free.
BEST PICKS:
- Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): Don’t let the name fool you. This exfoliant has both salicylic acid to unclog pores and glycolic acid to fade away the dark spots pimples sometimes leave behind. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK.
- Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($29.00): The cult exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. The texture’s a little sticky, but if you can take that, this is one of the best salicylic acid exfoliants out there. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Net-A-Porter, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK.
- The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid (£9.99): A simple, no-frills salicylic acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Cult Beauty and Sephora.
Want to know the most irritating ingredients lurking in your skincare products? Download your FREE “Skincare Ingredients To Avoid” cheatsheet to find out what to avoid:
Skincare Product To Avoid #2: Apricot Scrubs
I’m not a fan of scrubs. But I get why people like them. Scrubs exfoliates skin instantly. The result? Softer, smoother, brighter-looking skin in minutes. Who doesn’t want that?
But, there’s a catch. Scrubs use tiny particles to manually remove dead cells from your skin. Some of these particles are safe for skin and do a good job – albeit a limited one. They only exfoliate skin but don’t go the extra mile to hydrate and fight acne like exfoliating acids do.
But other particles are dangerous for skin. Yep, you’ve read that right. I did say dangerous. They have rough, irregular edges that scratch and tear skin – and even stretch pores! Apriocot granules are the WORST offenders. If you ever ended up with red, irritated skin after using a scrub, chances are it used apricot kernels. Some people got it so bad, they’re suing St. Ives for selling a dangerous product!
FYI, the way you use scrubs matter. The more vigorously you rub them, and the longer you leave them on, the higher the chances you’ll strip away too many skin cells and leave your skin red and irritated. But even being as gentle as you possible can, apricot scrubs, due to their irregular shape, are a disaster waiting to happen.
“Walnut and apricot scrubs have a reputation for harming skin rather than helping it,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr Dendy Engelman. “I recommend that my patients avoid physical scrubs like this, as the exfoliating particles (the shells and pits) are too abrasive for skin and can actually cause small injuries, or micro-tears, as well as inflammation and infection.”
WHAT TO USE INSTEAD
Physical exfoliants like scrubs are one trick ponies. They exfoliate the surface of your skin, making it softer and brighter, but nothing else. Compare that to chemical exfoliants that do all kinds of extra jobs. Before I take you there, don’t let the chemical part fool you. Anything that’s made of matter, including water, is a chemical.
Chemical exfoliants are way gentler on your skin (unless you go overboard, that is). They don’t have irregular, jagged edges that tear skin. Instead, they stay on the skin, slowly deteriorating the glue that holds dead cells together, so they can slough off and reveal the brighter and smoother skin underneath. It’s a longer process, but a gentler one that gives you better results in the long run.
The right chemical exfoliant for you depends on your skin type:
- If you have oily skin: Salicylic acid. It exfoliates both the surface of the skin and the inside of your pores to remove blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples. Plus, it has anti-inflammatory properties that calm down redness and inflammation (the main cause of acne).
- If you have dry skin: Glycolic acid. It exfoliates and hydrates your skin at the same time. It’s also the best exfoliant to lighten dark spots and discolourations.
- If you have sensitive skin: Lactic acid. It’s the gentlest of all the exfoliating acids and has hydrating properties to boot. If even this irritates your skin, use a washcloth instead.
BEST PICKS
- Paula’s Choice Clear Regular Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution With 2% Salicylic Acid ($34.00): This exfoliant unclogs pores, treats acne (including blackheads), and soothes redness. Its lightweight texture sinks into skin quickly without leaving a tacky residue behind. Available at Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Selfridges, and SpaceNK.
- The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution (£11.50): A simple, no-frills Glycolic Acid exfoliant that brightens the complexion and fades away dark spots. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta.
- The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2% ($8.90): A simple Lactic Acid exfoliant enriched with Hyaluronic Acid to exfoliate and hydrate skin at the same time. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta.
Related: Which Exfoliant Is Right For Your Skin Type?
Skincare Product To Avoid #3: Pore Strips
I totally get it why people love using pores strip. It’s so satisfying to rip the off and see all the gunk removed from your skin. And yet… pore strips are the WORST way to clean your pores – and not only because they DON’T clean them! Pore strips only remove the debris on the surface of your skin, but they can’t penetrate deep inside your pores and remove all the gunk that’s clogging them. In other words, pore strips can remove the head of the blackhead, but not the tail, so it’s a matter of time before the nasty bugger comes back with a vengeance.
There’s worse… Anything that has an adhesive effect is bad news for skin. Removing the strip can cause skin trauma and damage your skin’s protective barrier, leading to dryness and infections. Like that weren’t enough, it also stretches pores, making them look bigger! Plus, some of the adhesive can get stuck in your pores, clogging them up. I know, I know… pore strips give you a satisfying feel, but that’s the only pro they have. They’re just bad for skin in every possible way.
WHAT TO USE INSTEAD
I may start to sound like a broken record, but salicylic acid is your best friend here. It gets deep inside your pores, removing blackheads from within. Plus, by exfoliating your pores regularly, it also keeps blackheads (and whiteheads, and pimples) from coming back.
BEST PICKS:
- Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): Don’t let the name fool you. This exfoliant has both salicylic acid to unclog pores and glycolic acid to fade away the dark spots pimples sometimes leave behind. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK.
- Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($29.00): The cult exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. The texture’s a little sticky, but if you can take that, this is one of the best salicylic acid exfoliants out there. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Net-A-Porter, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK.
- The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid (£9.99): A simple, no-frills salicylic acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Cult Beauty and Sephora.
Bonus: Other Skincare Products To Avoid
The skincare products mentioned above are the WORST offenders. Avoid them like the plague. But, there are other skincare products that are harmless, or may even provide some benefits, but aren’t good enough to justify the money and time spent in making them a part of your skincare routine. Here are the other skincare products to avoid, in my opinion:
- Essences: Depending on the ingredients, they can hydrate skin, fight wrinkles, and even keep acne at bay. I’m not a fan because serums and moisturisers do the same thing. Do we really 2 products when the one will do? If you find a great essence you like, great! But you may consider swapping it for your serum, so you don’t use too many unnecessary layers.
- Face wipes: They may be good in an emergency, but they don’t clean as well as other types of cleansers. It’s usually the manual motion of rubbing stuff away from your face that cleanses skin. It’s neither that effective or gentle.
- Micellar waters: Cleansing skin without water may be good in an emergency, but it’s not a good way to nourish skin in the long run. Plus, they’re so gentle, you need a lot of product, cotton pads, and elbow grease to take makeup off. I recommend them only for on-the-go emergencies or very sensitive skin that can’t tolerate other types of cleansers.
- Sheet masks: They can be a good pick-me-up before a special occasion, but a good serum will do much the same thing – without wasting sooo much packaging (what’s good for skin isn’t always good for the planet).
The Bottom Line
Not every skincare product puts the care into skin care. Some are outdated concoctions we don’t need anymore, others are categories of products created to make you spend more money on stuff you don’t need. Now you know what skincare products you avoid, you can invest your money in what really works and ditch the rest.
Can you give a link to the research that say that Benzoyl peroxide generate free radicals ? Thank you
Leo, sure. Here are a couple of links:
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1782351
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?cmd=Retrieve&list_uids=7204686&dopt=Citation