“Gio, how can The Ordinary products work if they’re so cheap? Where’s the catch?”
Headaches. The catch is in the headaches The Ordinary gives you when you’re trying to decide what to buy.
Want a simple retinoid serum, for example? Here are 6! 6, ladies! How the heck do you decide which one is right for you?! Do you go with the one with the highest concentration? Play eeny meeny miny moe? Flip a coin?
I’m a nerd, so I like to decode the labels and figure out which retinoid serum has the best ingredients for my skin type. Sounds too boring?
Worry not. I’ve done the work so you won’t have to. 🙂 Here’s the ultimate guide to The Ordinary Retinoid serums:
- What Are Retinoids?
- The Ordinary Retinoid Serums: Which One Is Better For You?
- The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% In Squalane (£7.80)
- The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane (£11.90)
- The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion (Previously Advanced Retinoid 2%) (£8.00)
- The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% In Squalane (£4.20)
- The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% In Squalane (£4.90)
- The Ordinary Retinol 1% In Squalane (£5.80)
- The Verdict: Which The Ordinary Retinoid Serums Is Better?
What Are Retinoids?
Retinoids is the family name for every form of Vitamin A used in skincare products. Vitamin A is the only thing that’s been proven (so far!) to reduce the wrinkles you already have. I’m talking about reducing their depth and size, not just making them look smaller to the naked eye (what most skincare products do).
Vitamin A fights wrinkles in three different ways: it boosts the production of collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm; it neutralises the free radicals that cause wrinkles before they have the chance to wreak their damage on your skin; and they speed up your skin’s natural exfoliating process to smoothen out texture, even out skin tone, and treat acne.
There are different forms of Vitamin A used in skincare. The Ordinary Retinoid serums only use two forms: retinol and granactive retinoid. For the purposes of this article, we’ll focus on them only.
Retinol: What It Is, Skincare Benefits, And Side Effects
Retinol is the most common form of Vitamin A found in OTC skincare products. Why? Most forms of Vitamin A need to be converted into Retinoic Acid, its pure form, to work their anti-aging magic on wrinkles. The conversion works like this:
Retinyl palmitate ==> Retinol ==> Retinaldehyde ==> Retinoic Acid
The closer a form is to Retinoic Acid, the more effective and (potentially) irritating, it is. It hits that perfect spot of being effective against wrinkles without being too irritating. So, what does it do, what benefits does retinol have for your skin?
- It has antioxidant properties that destroy the free radicals that cause premature wrinkles and dark spots.
- It accelerates cellular turnover (i.e. the skin’s natural exfoliating process), reducing the appearance of dark spots, wrinkles, and acne.
- It boosts the production of collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm.
The catch? Even though retinol is considerably gentler than Retinoic Acid, it can still cause irritation, dryness, and redness – especially in sensitive skin. I always recommend starting with the lowest concentration once a week and increasing both dose and frequency gradually, once your skin has gotten used to it.
Granactive Retinoid: What It Is, Skincare Benefits, And Side Effects
Granactive Retinoid is the nickname for Hydroxypinacolone Retinoid (that’s how you’ll find it on the ingredient list). Or HPR, for short. Unlike other forms of Vitamin A, like retinol, it does NOT need to be converted into Retinoic Acid to work.
According to the manufacturer, Granactive Retinoid gets rid of wrinkles and dark spots better than retinol – and without the irritation. Problem is, I couldn’t find any independent studies confirming this.
Granactive Retinoid is a retinoid, so I’m confident, it can help you reduce wrinkles, fade away dark spots, and smoothen out your complexion. There’s just no proof it does all this better than retinol.
What we know for sure, based on independent studies is that Granactive Retinoid can treat acne and melasma. It’s also gentler on the skin, so if yours can’t tolerate retinol, it makes sense to try Granactive Retinoid instead.
The Ordinary Retinoid Serums: Which One Is Better For You?
The Ordinary has 6 retinoid serums. Are they all good? Are any of them bad and to-be-avoided at all costs? And which one is better for your unique skin type and needs? Let’s find out:
FYI: All forms of retinoids make skin more prone to sun damage. Use them at night only and apply sunscreen generously during the day.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% In Squalane (£7.80)
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% In Squalane features 0.2% Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), a newer (and less studied than retinol) form of Retinoid.
It comes in a sqialane base – Squalane is a moisturising oil that doesn’t clog pores and is suitable even for acne-prone skin. Squalane gives the lightweight texture an oily feel. Despite that, it sinks in quickly into your skin.
This is the GENTLEST The Ordinary retinoid serum and is very unlikely to cause irritations. I mean, if this irritates your skin, you should not use retinoids AT ALL. They’re just not suitable for you. Still, don’t go overboard. Use it a couple of times a week to start with, and increase frequency slowly.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
I recommend this serum only to sensitive, acne-prone skin that can’t tolerate other forms of Vitamin A (like retinol).
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
Related: What Form Of Retinoid Is Right For You?
Confused about The Ordinary? Click on the image below to subscribe to my newsletter and get “The Ordinary Products Guide” Cheatsheet. It’ll help you choose the right Vitamin C serum, the right peptide serum, and more from The Ordinary.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane (£11.90)
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane is an almost identical formula to The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% In Squalane. The main difference is that it contains a higher concentration of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 0.5%.
The texture is very similar to the 0.2% version, as the Squalene gives it an oily feel. But, this time, it’s a little oilier and it takes a little longer to sink in.
0.5% HPR is very gentle, so this serum should not cause irritations. If it does, your skin is very, very sensitive, so stick with the lower version or give up retinoids completely.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
If you’ve been on Granactive Retinoid 2% In Squalane for a while and results have plateaued and there’s no irritation, you’re ready to upgrade to this. With retinoids, always start with a low concentration and work your way up.
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
Related: My Full Review Of The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane
To make this serum part of your The Ordinary routine I recommend following my scientist friend’s course called Extraordinary Skin With The Ordinary – in it she’s teaching you how to design a The Ordinary skincare routine to get makeupless skin you love. Click here to check it out now. (affiliate link)
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion (Previously Advanced Retinoid 2%) (£8.00)
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion contains TWO forms of retinoids: 0.2% Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate + an encapsulated retinol. Encapsulation means that retinol is released slowly into your skin over a period of several hours instead of all at once, making it gentler and better tolerated even by sensitive skin.
Having said, this serum is stronger than the Granactive Retinoids in Squalane, so it may irritate sensitive skin. Use it a couple of times a week and, if you experience no dryness or redness, increase frequency to any other day.
The texture is different. It’s the only formula without Squalane, so there’s no oiliness. It’s a creamy serum that absorbs quickly into the skin without leaving any greasy residue behind.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
It’s for women (and men) who want a medium-strength retinoid serum that gives results without irritating skin. It’s also a good option for those who want to use the best of the new (Granactive Retinoid) and old (Retinol) generation of retinoids. Why choose when you can have both?
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta.
Related: My Full Review Of The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid Emulsion
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% In Squalane (£4.20)
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% In Squalane uses 0.2% retinol. I personally prefer the retinol formulations because retinol has a ton of research to support its effectiveness, as opposed to the newer Hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
The catch? Retinol is more irritating. 0.2% is a mild concentration, but if you have very sensitive skin, you may experience some stinging and flaking. To make retinol less irritating, The Ordinary uses a Squalane base that’s both moisturising and soothing.
Squalane also gives the serum a oily feel – a lightweight one, but it can still be a dealbreaker for some people.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
If you want to use retinol, but have never used it before, this is a great choice for your first retinoid product.
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
Related: The Complete Guide To Retinol: What It Is, What It Does, And How To Use It
The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% In Squalane (£4.90)
The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% In Squalane has the same formula as The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane, but with a higher concentration of retinol: 0.5%, which translates into 0.025% retinoid acid. That’s enough to treat photoaging.
It also makes it a little more irritating, so you have a higher chance of irritation, redness, and dryness. To minimise these side effects, you have a moisturising Squalane base that also makes the texture slightly oilier. It takes 30 seconds to a min for it to fully absorb into your skin.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
If you’ve used 0.2% or 0.3% concentrations without side effects for a few months, and want to upgrade to a stronger formula for faster anti-aging results, this is for you.
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary, and Ulta
Related: What Strength Of Retinol Do You Need?
The Ordinary Retinol 1% In Squalane (£5.80)
The Ordinary Retinol 1% In Squalane is the MOST powerful and effective out of all The Ordinary Retinoid serums. It uses 1% retinol, which converts into 0.5% retinoid acid. That’s enough to reduce sun damage and boost collagen.
The catch? 1% retinol is irritating. This should never be the first retinol product you try. You need to build up tolerance through this slowly by using smaller concentrations first. And even then, you may still experience some side effects, including dryness, redness, and peeling.
The Squalane base is once again here to minimise any dryness – but it does make the texture oily. It takes a minute or so to fully sink in.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
Retinoid pros who’ve worked their way up to this strength. It’s perfect for people who want to use the most effective OTC % of retinol, but aren’t ready to upgrade to prescription Tretinoin, yet.
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
Related: Retinol Side Effects: What They Are And How To Deal With Them
The Verdict: Which The Ordinary Retinoid Serums Is Better?
| GRANACTIVE RETINOID 2% | GRANACTIVE RETINOI D5% | GRANACTIVE EMULSION | 0.2% RETINOL | 0.5% RETINOL | 0.1% RETINOL | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| RETINOID | 2% Granactive Retinoid | 5% Granactive Retinoid | 0.2% Granactive Retinoid + encapsulated retinol | 0.2% retinol | 0.5% retinol | 0.1% retinol |
| TEXTURE | Slightly oily | Moderately oily | Light cream | Slightly oily | Moderately oily | Oily |
| IRRITATING POTENTIAL | Low | Low | Low | Low | Moderate | High |
| SKIN TYPE | Sensitive | Sensitive, acne-prone | All skin types | Sensitive skin | All skin types | All skin types |
If you’re:
- Looking for a gentle form of retinoid: Stick to the Granactive Retinoids In Squalane.
- Prefer the tried-and-tested retinol and your skin isn’t sensitive: Go with the Retinol In Squalane.
- Can’t choose and want the best of both worlds: Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion.
Whatever you opt for, always start with the smallest concentration first and work your way up.
Related: The Complete Guide To The Ordinary Vitamin C products.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% In Squalane Ingredients
Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bisabolol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane Ingredients
Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bisabolol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Ethyl Linoleate, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Bisabolol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carrageenan, Xanthan gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Cetyl Palmitate, Sucrose Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Isoceteth-20, Behentrimonium Chloride, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% In Squalane Ingredients
Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT
The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% Retinol In Squalane
Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT
The Ordinary Retinol 1% In Squalane Ingredients
Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT
How would you use those products in a PM routine?
I currently have the Advanced retinoid emulsion. Should I apply it first or after other water-based serums? (I have SubQ, MMHC, Matrixyl, Survival 0).
Thanks!
Alex, I usually apply retinol straight after cleansing. But if your other serums have a thinner consistency, use those first.
hai gio..i’m so happy found this article …can you recommend which one retinol that safe for malassezia (fungal acne)?i need your help…thx you
Hi Lenni, Paula’s Choice makes some great retinol products that are suitable for you. Just stay away from the 1% booster.
Are you on Instagram?
Alexandria, yes. My handle is @beautifulwithbrainsofficial
Hi Gio,
Thank you so much for this post, I really find it helpful. 🙂
I am concidering trying the Granactice Retinoid 2 % in Squalane, but since I have oily skin, I’m worried if I should be using a product with squalane oil? What do you think, is squalane suitable for oily skin?
Sascha, yes, squalene oil is one of the few oils that’s suitable for oily skin too.
Hi Gio,
Can I use retinol 0.5% after using retinoid 2% in squalane, without having to worry about irritation? Has 2% retinoid helped build up my skin resistance to retinol?
Thank you!
Hi Elena, do you mean using them on the same day, one after the day? Retinoid 2% helps build tolerance indeed but I’d stick to just one retinoid product in your skincare routine at a time.
No, no, not at the same time, of course ?. I’ve been using 2% retinoid thus far and I was wondering if I could replace it with 0.5% retinol (I’d like to try something stronger).
But your answer helps, thanks!
Elena, I see. Yes, you can totally upgrade. If your skin hasn’t built up enough tolerance, just cut back on usage a little.
Hi there, this is a nice article and helped me a lot to find my way with the only affordable retinoid products on the market.
However there’s is a lapsus between melasma and melanoma in the top of the article! (In the research references). Not quite the same 😉
Licornice, oops, my bad! Thanks for spotting the lapses, I’ve just fixed it.
So glad the post has helped you. 🙂
Hi. I have been using Granactive retinoids 2% emulsion for the last few months. Wondering what strength would be best to use next as an upgrade?!
Casey, from TO, 1% retinol in squalene.
Thanks Gio, this was super helpful.
Gemma, glad it helped! 🙂
I have recently started derma rolling (0.5mm) at home once a week. Tonight will be my 3rd treatment. I want to add a Retinoid or retinol to my regimen. I have dry skin & is ‘slightly’ drier since I started derma rolling. I am also acne prone, not severe, 1-3 at a time. I use The Ordinary products because they are so budget friendly. Can you help me figure out which one I should start with. I really don’t want to start with the lowest if I don’t have too. Thank you
April, yes you have to start with the lowest (granactive retinoid 2%). everyone has to. In your case it’s especially important because you’re already drying out your skin with dermarolling.
Hi! I just discovered The Ordinary and I am looking forward to trying their products. I was just wonder if the OG retinol products are encapsulated? Thanks!
Janel, the Granactive emulsion is, but I don’t think the others are.
Thanks for your helpful insight. For a night regimine I’m using SubQ Anti-age followed byRetinol:1% and then a night moisturizer. I’m 60, live in dry Colorado and trying to keep my skin as wrinkle free as possible. Please let me know if this is the right layering . So far no irritation at all. Jo
Jo, yes, the layering is correct. 🙂
Hi Gio!
I’ve been using serum with 0,1% adapalen for a past 2 months, and before that I’ve been taking Accutane for the whole winter. Which of these serums would you recommend to me as a prevention for acne relapse?
Julia, the emulsion. Just because I don’t like using anything oil-based for acne prone skin.
Hi
Is the granactive 2% emulsion stronger than the 5% granactive in squalane? You seem to be the second blogger to say this.
TO started with the emulsion and that’s what i started my retinol journey with too in June 2017.
I then moved to granactive 2%, then granactive 5% and then 0.5% retinol. Have I moved in the wrong direction?
Am now looking to move to the 1% retinol in squalane.
Its all very confusing, especially since Deciem insists that the granactive 5% is the strongest retinol in their arsenal.
Please help
Nausheen, you did move in the right direction, so go ahead with 1% retinol now.
Granactive retinoid is very powerful on paper, but we lack independent studies on how it compares to retinol, which has decades of evidence behind it. So whenever possible, I still prefer retinol.
Thanks! i have, however developed fine pimples on the sides of my face since TO has introduced squalane in the retinol, could this be the reason?
Nausheen, oh no! Unfortunately, you’re not the first person to report this. I think TO retinol products are great, but I don’t really recommend them to oily skin for this reason.
Do you know which would be the best option if previously I was using adapalene .3%? Seeking something that’s more or less the same strength.
Eleni, adapalene and retinol are two different forms, so you can’t really compare them.
You can start with 0.5% retinol and build up to 1%, but you’ll be taking a step back for a while. The other option is to go down the prescription route to get a retinoid that works as well or even better than adapalene.
Hi Gio,
its a beautiful article and really helpful.
I am using Tretinoin 0.025% past 1 year…i have a very dry skin.
Can i start with granactive retinoid 2% in squalane or
Granactive retinoid 2% emulsion ..Please reply..
Thanku,
Swetha.
Swetha, no you can’t. If you use Tretinoin, you DON’T need any other type of retinoid.
Hello! I just recently came across your page and I am looking to get into retinoids through the ordinary brands. Do I first start off with retinal and work my way up to retinoids or is it the other way around? Thank you so much!
Nicole, retinal is a retinoid. I recommend you start with 0.2% retinol and build up from there.
Hi, as a woman in her 60s, after listening to my daughter, I went out got Retinol 0.2% in Squalane, I also bought the Buffet, the Marine Hyaluronic. I’ve been using the Retinol for a month now. I like the texture and look of my skin, but just like the other poster, I also have developed fine spots on either side of my face (close to the temples). I’m wondering now if that to do with the Retinol? I use every night and occasionally mix it with the Buffet or the Marine. Many thanks.
Maggie, it could be the oil base of the retinol serum. Try switching to an oil-free retinol serum and see if that helps.
Hi! I’m new to all this retinoid & retinol regimen. What TO retinol/retinoid product do you suggest I start first?