Do you spend more time putting your makeup on than taking it off?
If so, you’re doing it wrong. I know, cleansers are the most boring products on earth, and taking makeup off a chore you could gladly do without. But, cleansing your skin, both at night and in the morning, is NOT negotiable.
Cleansing is one of the most important steps in our skincare routine. It removes grime and impurities from your faces, so they won’t clog pores, and allows the goodies in our serums and moisturizers to better penetrate into your skin, so they can work at full power.
But, you can’t just pick a random one from the shelf. If it’s not formulated for your skin type, it can cause some serious havoc. So, how do you choose the right formula? Here are some tips to help you out:
How Cleansers Are Made
Before we talk about the various types of cleansers, I’ll tell you a secret: all types of cleansers use the same two categories of ingredients to work their magic. These are:
- Surfactants: These are ingredients that help water mix with oil and dirt so they can easily be rinsed away. The harshest (which should be avoided) is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Some of the gentlest are Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, and Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate. Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Ammonium Laureth Sulfare are somewhere in between. There are others, of course, but I won’t bore you with the whole list.
- Emollients & humectants: These are moisturizers that reduce the harshness of the surfactants (because, if they were TOO gentle, they wouldn’t cleanse skin at all) and keep skin soft during and after washing. They include Glycerin, Petrolatum, and natural oil.
So, what changes? The type of surfactants and emollients used, and their ratio. Let’s take a look at the various types of cleansers, shall we?
Don’t know which skincare products you can mix and match together and which ones deactivate each other? Download your FREE “How To Layer Actives Like A Pro” cheat sheet to get the most out of your skincare products:
Types Of Cleansers: Which One Is The Best For Your Skin Type?
Foaming Cleansers
- High in surfactants and low in emollients
- Produce a lot of lather
- Remove dirt and waterproof makeup well
- Leave no residue behind
- They can be drying if left on the skin too long
Best picks:
- Corsx low PH Good Morning Gel Cleanser ($11.00): ph 5.5. Available at Sokoglam and YesStyle.
- Neutrogena Fresh Foaming Cleanser ($6.99): ph 6.2. Available at Ulta.
- Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Oil-Reducing Cleanser ($18.00): ph 5.5. Available at Nordstrom and Paula’s Choice.
Related: Are Foaming Cleansers Bad For Skin?
Cleansing Milks
- Low in surfactants and high in emollients
- Don’t produce much lather
- Remove dirt but struggle with waterproof makeup
- Can leave a residue behind
- Gentle on the skin
Best Picks:
- CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser ($14.99): available at Dermstore, Feel Unique, Ulta and Walmart
- La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermo Cleanser (£8.75): available at Dermstore and Feel Unique
- Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Softening Cream Cleanser ($17.00): available at Dermstore and Paula’s Choice
Cleansing Oils (Including Dual-Phase Makeup Removers)
- High in emollient oils that cleanse and moisturize
- Don’t lather
- Remove dirt and waterproof makeup well
- Leave a residue behind
- Gentle on the skin
Best picks:
- Paula’s Choice Perfect Cleansing Oil ($25.00): available at Look Fantastic and Paula’s Choice
- The Body Shop Camomile Silky Cleansing Oil (£12.00): available at The Body Shop
Related: Why You Should Switch To The Oil Cleansing Method (OCM)
Cleansing Balms
- High in emollients oils that cleanse and moisturize
- Turn into oils when massaged into the skin
- Don’t lather
- Remove dirt and waterproof makeup well
- Leave a residue behind
- Gentle on the skin
Best pick:
- Banila Co. Clean It Zero ($19.00): available at Soko Glam and Yes Style
- Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm ($29.00/£24.00): available at Feel Unique, Nordstrom, Sephora and Ulta
Micellar Waters
- High in gentler surfactants and low in emollients
- Don’t lather
- Remove dirt but struggle with makeup
- Don’t leave a residue behind
- Don’t need to be rinsed off
- Gentle on the skin
Best Pick:
- Bioderma Sensibio ($10.90/£10.80): available at Dermstore and Feel Unique
Related: How Do Micellar Water Work?
Cleansing Wipes
- Low in surfactants and emollients
- Cloths infused with a cleansing lotion
- Don’t cleanse and remove makeup well
- Their cleansing power is mostly due to the frictional force of rubbing the cloth into the skin
- May leave a residue behind
- Can be drying
- Best for emergencies
Best Picks:
- CeraVe Makeup Remover Cleansing Cloths ($8.99): available at Ulta and Walmart
- MAC Wipes ($10.00): available at Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Selfridges
- Paula’s Choice Gentle Cleansing Cloths ($11.00): available at Dermstore, and Paula’s Choice
How To Choose The Best Cleanser For Your Skin Type
First of all, you must know your skin type, or you’re bound to pick up the wrong one. If you don’t have a clue, check out my ultimate guide to identifying your skin type, and then come back here.
Already know your skin type? Go ahead, then:
Normal Skin
You’ve been blessed with awesome skin that has no issues, and you’d like to keep it that way.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLEANSER
There’s nothing to fix, so just use a cleanser that removes dirt and makeup without creating any problems.
WHAT’S THE BEST CLEANSER FOR NORMAL SKIN?
You can choose any type of cleanser, as long as the formula’s not harsh. If it leaves your skin tight and dry, ditch it.
Related: The Best Skincare Routine For Normal Skin
Oily Skin
Your sebaceous glands are workaholics. They produce wayyyyyyyyy more sebum than skin needs to stay naturally moisturized, and you’re tempted to use the harshest cleanser you can find to get rid of it all. But, when you do, your skin has the annoying tendency of producing even more oil to compensate. Arrgh!
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLEANSER
You need a cleanser that strips away enough oil to remove grease, but not enough to dry out skin. Choose a lightweight one that’s moderately high in surfactants and low in emollients. Emollients are great for dry skin, but can leave a residue behind and clog your pores. No, thanks!
WHAT’S THE BEST CLEANSER FOR OILY SKIN?
- Foaming cleansers
Related: The Best Skincare Routine For Oily Skin
Dry Skin
Most cleansers are too harsh for your skin type, and remove ALL the little amount of sebum your lazy sebaceous glands manage to produce, leaving it as dry as a cardboard box.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLEANSER
You may like the lather, but it’s not your friend. Opt for cleansers low in surfactants and high in emollients that replenish moisture while cleansing. Your skin will thank you!
WHAT’S THE BEST TYPE OF CLEANSER FOR DRY SKIN?
- Cleansing Balms
- Cleansing Milks
- Cleansing Oils
Related: The Best Skincare Routine For Dry Skin
Combination Skin
Your skin is crazy. Some areas are too oily and greasy, others dry and flaky. All the cleansers you’ve tried tend to worsen both problems, making you go crazy, too.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
You’re not gonna like this, my beautiful smart friend, but your best option is to use two cleansers: one chockfull of emollients on your dry patches, and one who barely has any on your oily areas.
WHAT’S THE BEST CLEANSER FOR COMBINATION SKIN
- Cleansing balms (on dry patches)
- Cleansing milks (on dry patches)
- Cleansing oils (on dry patches)
- Foaming cleansers (on oily patches)
Related: The Best Skincare Routine For Combination Skin
Sensitive Skin
All cleansers irritate your skin, and leave it a red, flaky mess. You’re seriously starting to consider to wash your face with water alone, but suspect that will be too harsh too (plus, it won’t remove makeup).
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Be gentle. Choose the mildest formula you can find. Just make sure it’s fragrance-free. As pleasant as they are, fragrances can cause havoc on your skin.
WHAT’S THE BEST CLEANSER FOR SENSITIVE SKIN?
- Micellar waters
What Type Of Cleansers Should You Avoid?
Soaps
So, you noticed I didn’t mention bar soap anywhere? I’m no fan of soaps. They usually have an alkaline base (that means a high pH) that can disrupt the skin’s protective barrier, causing all sorts of problems, including dryness, irritations, and infections. Stay away from them.
Related: Why You Should Never Use Soap To Cleanse Your Face
Exfoliating, Anti-Aging, And Anti-Acne Cleansers
Avoid those, too. They aren’t bad for your skin, but they’re bad for your wallet. The antioxidants, exfoliating acids, and acne-busters in them need to stay on the skin for hours to work their best. If you massage them on your skin for a minute or so, only a tiny amount will penetrate skin, and that won’t do much good.
One exception is exfoliating cleansers with microbeads, sugars, walnut or apricot particles (those are super irritating, by the way), etc. Those don’t need to stay on the skin for hours, obviously. But, I don’t like those either. It’s so easy to rub them on the skin that little bit longer and damage it.
Besides, they can only remove dead skin cells. Glycolic acid also hydrates skin and boosts collagen production, while salicylic acid also keeps oil production under control and the pores free from breakout-causing gunk. So, leave manual exfoliation to newbies, and invest in a good acid-based leave-in exfoliant, instead.
You’ll wonder why you haven’t done so before!
Related: Why You Shouldn’t Waste Your Money On Exfoliating Cleansers
The Bottom Line
Now you know how to choose the best cleanser for your skin type, you can clean your skin without fear of drying it out or irritating it, or throwing your money down the drain (literally).
I love cleansers, Gio, and I have a lot of them: 2 creams, 2 gels, and 2 different cleansing wipes. Plus I have 2 complexion bar soaps. I’ve got all the bases covered, lol!
Allison, wow, that’s a lot of cleansers! Which type do you prefer?
I usually use foaming cleansers as they are just quick and practical and I don’t like my face to be oily but they do tend to dry out my skin a bit. Thank you for sharing this:)
Helena, I like foaming cleansers too, they cleanse so well. But if you find them drying, look for one with gentler ingredients like Sodium Lauroamphoacetate. 🙂
I love my cleansing oils for taking off makeup, the Shu Umeura ones are excellent. But for general use I do like gentle foaming cleansers. 🙂
Xuvious, I like cleansing oils too. They take makeup off so well, I agree. 🙂
I have read lots about the wonders of cleaning your face with extra virgin organic coconut oil. My face loves it and i feel clean and dry after wiping it off with a damp cloth, but is it good or ir bad to use as my cleanser in an anti aging regimen? I live in the desert and tend to have somewhat dry skin.
Mom In Nevada, there isn’t a clear rule. If your skin reacts well to it, keep using it. My only concern is that coconut oil may cause breakouts, but if you’re not experiencing any, there’s no reason to stop using it.
Well, it looks as though I’ve been using the right type of product for my dry skin, but that’s more of an accident than because I understood the science. Thanks for explaining about the different types of products and which skin types they suit best.
Kirsty, my pleasure. And well done for picking the right one. 🙂
What do you think of St. Ives exfoliating apricot scrub?
Thanks
Alyson, apricot scrubs are one of the worst things you can use on your skin. These particles have jarred edges that can seriously scratch skin.
Hi gio,
what do you think of the skinceuticals cleansers or medik8 cleansers
My beautician recommends these. My skin is combination but more dehydrated than oily. I never know if they’re just trying to make commission.
Thank you! X
Sarah, these are good cleansers for combo skin. They use very gentle surfactants that shouldn’t dry out your skin even more. But their formulas are quite basic. So, yeah, they work but aren’t that different from plenty other cleansers on the market.
The soap paragraph reminded me of my mom. She’s in her 60’s now but used Dove soap all her life to cleanse her face and always complained that she had dry skin.
Jazz, oh no! That may very well be the cause.
Are you sure you don’t need to rinse away micellar water? Isn’t it a good idea to remove the surfactant from your face? Could it be irritating to leave the product on your face and then layer on other products?
Sara, yes, micellar waters are very gentle and you don’t need to rinse them. You can find an explanation of how they work here: http://www.beautifulwithbrains.com/avene-micellar-lotion-review/
Hi Gio, how do you think of a gel cleanser? My skin is oily ,so I’ve been knowing that I should use a gel cleanser. After reading this, I am confused whether I should use foam or gel cleanser. Thanks.
Zin, gel is another great option for oily skin. If that works for you, stick with it. 🙂
Looks like I am really late to this conversation. I have aging skin. I am changing up my skin care routine and would like to use an oil cleanser. Since I am trying to use products with fewer harmful chemicals I want to try coconut oil. I have read to massage it in well then wipe with a clean hot wash cloth. Will my other products work well after this regime or will the residual left behind block them??
Marky, what skin type do you have? Coconut oil is very comedogenic so it could give you pimples if you don’t remove it completely. Try a mixture of castor and jojoba or castor and extra virgin olive oil instead. But you may have to follow up with a foaming cleanser to remove any residue and enhance the penetration of your skincare products.
I’m a little disappointed… Neutrogena is not a good product and your choices of make up removers.. not on my face.. there is a app called “Think Dirty” you can scan the barcode and it tells you the what’s hood, fair and dirty.. I started reading labels and looking up ingredients two years ago.. The best makeup out there.. hands down .. Sweet Minerals.. nothing toxic plus sweat proof and provides sunscreen protection.. I sell “Perfectly Posh” at 64 my skin did a turn around and I look fabulous! I don’t buy anything off the shelves of Walmart and I have to disagree on products you are telling your customers that are good.. there is alot of information on toxic substances that you have correct.. but then you steer your people to the wrong products .. it’s just my opinion and everyone can take it with a grain of salt.. but your skin is what you put on it..
Sharon, thank you for your comment. I applaud you for reading ingredient labels and trying to choose products that are good and safe for your skin. Unfortunately apps like Think Dirty are NOT reliable sources of information. They just don’t understand the science behind skincare. In science, we have a saying, “it’s the dose that makes the poison.” Just because an ingredient is toxic at 100% concentrations, it doesn’t mean it’s toxic at 1%. Heck, vitamin C. It’s good for you, right? But if you eat too much vitamin C, it’s actually toxic for your body and you’ll get seriously ill. If you want to know if an ingredient is toxic in skincare, you need to do studies on how it’s used in skincare, not reference studies on higher concentrations. That’s just scaremongering and is steering people towards alternatives that are more natural but not necessarily safer.
Do you think that Avene Tolérance Extrême Lotion is as useful at respecting the skin barrier for cleansing?
The cleansing milks you list make perfect sense for actually adding to the skin rather than taking away, i was wondering if the Avene would do the same. Thanks
Volcanicrash, yes. That’s a very gentle option too.
Thanks !
One last question on cleansers. I just read your review of Niod Low-Viscosity Cleaning Ester. It all sounds very promising particularly the fact that it doesnt dry the skin. Would these hydrating cleansers be a better choice still or would the niod product be suitable (ie respect the barrier or even aid in its repair when damaged) given its few and simple list of ingredients?
Volcanicrash, I wouldn’t say it’s necessarily better. What product you choose depends a lot on your skin type and personal preference. But yeah, the Niod cleanser is one of my fave. If you’re looking for a gentle cleanser that gets the job done and respect the skin’s natural protective barrier, it’s definitely a strong contender.
Ciao Gio,
Thank you for taking the time to answer.
I have always had dry skin and only recently decided to do something about it and was doing ok but after using salcilic acid my face has become red and flakey in places. Despite weeks having past my skin still looks broken and i am struggling to fix it. All cleansers i have tried seem to make my skin flakey so the journey continues. anyway just trying to say thank you for taking the time to post. Its very helpful.
Volcanicrash, have you tried the cleansers in this post? They are super gentle. Also, make sure you only cleanse and moisturise well until your skin is back to normal.
I will certainly give them a go.
Hi Gio,
I don’t have sensitive skin but I prefer mycellar water. Sometimes I’ll use a balm or oil and remove it with mycellar water. Although in the shower i like to use a foaming wash and a physical exfoliating scrub. It seems to work well. I like the La Roche Posay mycellar water—any thoughts on it?
Lorka, LRP micellar water is good to cleanse in the morning but it doesn’t remove makeup very well.
This for this article Gio. I was using Cera Ve foaming cleaner, but my combination 60yr old skin felt dry after. I switched to Cera Ve hydrating cleanser, but when I toned before bed w/ The Ordinary Glycolic solution, way to much make up was left on cotton ball. I was thinking of using foaming cleanser, then following with hydrating cleanser. Then rest of The ordinary products that I use & LOVE. Is that too crazy??????
Ellen, don’t double cleanse! instead, have you tried using the CeraVe Hydrating cleanser with a washcloth?